Reinventing The Wheel

Behind the scenes with Bike Engineers and Entrepreneurs. Fortified Bicycle Alliance.

Author: Tivan Amour

Adventures in China, Batteries, and Your Favorite Turn-Offs

Friends,

First comes first… production update for our new bike lights - The Aviator and Afterburner.

We’re behind. Way behind. We haven’t even ordered tooling yet. Here’s the scoop:

Remember how we rejected the first batch of quotes because of astronomical prices or untrusted quality? And then remember how we went full force to find the perfect contract manufacturer: starting with a long list of 33 potential partners à short list of 10? Now we’re down to 4.

All 4 come from trusted references but we need to be sure. So we’re flying across the world to visit them and scrutinize the full supply chain. And everything we see we will share with you: machines, labor conditions, materials, dies, molds, PCBs, assemblies.

We’re not delivering in April. We are now aiming for summer but will know more in two weeks when Slava returns from Asia. This kills us and we lose sleep over it but again we’ve prioritized quality and this is the price we pay.

Take that, Energizer Bunny.

You may recall that our prototype for our new bike lights the USB battery was rectangular. Since then we’ve upgraded the design to make it more compact and easier to remove with the same charging capacity. We also added an anti-shock feature to the battery housing - a rib that slides into an internal groove in the light, fully securing the battery in place. This battery is going to be awesome!

Your Favorite Turn-offs!

You can turn us on with a press of a button but how do you want to turn us off? Remember there will be 3-4 light modes (Full on, Full blinking, eco blinking, etc.)

Option A: Cycle through from On -> Blink -> Eco -> Off

Option B: Hold down the button for 2 seconds to turn off

Tell us what you think in the comments!

Love,

Tivan, Bruno, Brian, Slava

How to Avoid Getting Your Bike Stolen

So you’ve made the investment, and spent all the money putting the bells and whistles on it, but what good is all of that if your new ride gets jacked à la Deebo from Friday? We can’t really help you if you get cold-cocked by the neighborhood bully— you’ll just have to charge that one to the game. But with a bit of common sense, the right equipment, and a little luck, you can keep your bike from being stolen.

1. Always lock your bike. It’s so simple, but there are plenty of poor souls who were “only gone for a minute” that have lost their bikes in the ether. Don’t be like them. Invest in a good bike lock and use it. Always.

2. Lock the frame, not the wheels. Don’t just lock the front or back wheel. People who have often come back to the bike rack to find only that wheel remains. Better to lock the sturdy metal frame in place. If the would-be thief steels the wheels, then he/she was just out to ruin your day and wasn’t even worried about the bike itself in the first place.

3. Don’t lock your bike to just anything. If you lock your bike up to a headless parking meter, the only thing that stands between a thief and your bike is the physical exertion it takes to lift it free. Trees are also a no-no. Stick to bike racks whenever possible.

4. Take your bike inside with you. Just avoid leaving the thing outside altogether. Bring it into the office if possible, or keep it in a garage. When you get home, bring the bike inside— if you payed as much as we know you have, and ride it as much as we know you do, it shouldn’t be outside if you can avoid it.

5. Make your bike your own. Adorn your ride with all manner of theft-resistant bike accessories. Paint it ridiculous colors. Nothing is more attractive to a bike thief than a bike whose “misplacement” will go unnoticed.

6. Park next to a nicer bike. Not the most “we are the world” thing you can do, but it’s safe to say that if your bike is parked next to a much more expensive rig, yours isn’t the one that the thief will be stealing.

7. Park your bike in a visible spot. If you do park it outside, park it where you can keep an eye on it and get to it easily if there’s a problem. When trying to keep it safe at night, park it in the most visible, open spot possible. I look for street lights.

Keep all of these things in mind when stowing your ride before and after your commute, and you’ve greatly increased you chances of it being there when you return.

Tubeless Tires - Worth the Switch?

Every city cyclist has had the bad luck of springing multiple flats in one month, one week, or even within the same day. Tubeless tires have been easing into the cyclocross circuit, with more and more riders abandoning conventional tubular rigs for tubeless tires. Traditional tubular tires still reign supreme in the top levels of cyclocross racing because they boast a wealth of advantages: The wheels are lighter, the casings tend to be more supple, and they do a better job of conforming to the terrain. However, since dynamic performance is not always the main focus for the average joe, tubeless rigs might be an idea worth entertaining for city bike commuters. They require no tube pinching and running sealant is often enough to repair small punctures, meaning less visits to the shop!

 

 

 

A tubeless setup consists of a tube and a rim that are specifically manufactured for one another. The physical interlocking of the two pieces is nearly the only thing holding the system together, and as such, it’s all about fit and the quality of the interface between the rim and the tire. The tighter, the better.

 

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GOOD SIGNS: distinctive ‘pops’ when the beat seats onto the rim, the tire inflates easily with a floor pump, the tire is still difficult to remove, even when deflated

The chief advantage of tubeless tires is their ability to run on lower pressures with a minimal risk of flatting, even on an extremely bumpy, dangerous city commute. So long as the rim and tire fit tightly, there is little to no risk of rolling, as well.

There are a couple of downsides. Firstly, there is a limited selection of tubeless rims on the market , and fewer still actual tires. Wheels and rims are available from from Stan’s NoTubes, Shimano, Easton, Bontrager, and Campagnolo/Fulcrum. Vittoria, Kenda, and Hutchinson have tubeless-ready tires, though Hutchinson is the only brand with tires wider than 23mm.

 

 

Secondly, working with tubeless road tires is decidedly more difficult than normal tubular rigs- it’s not as simple as handling a regular clincher. Upkeep of the stiff beads on and off of rims often requires soapy water and a bit of finagling. Being that the balance of tire and rim tread is so delicate, you must be careful in your choice of tire levers and the sealant used to repair punctures, as well as the installation of valves, rim tape, and strips. In some cases, an air compressor may be needed to properly install the tires.

 

Overall, setup and maintenance can be harder than normal though typically not as frequent, and tubeless setups require a little more vigilance than tubular setups. However, the buttery smooth ride and enhanced traction of running at lower pressures may be well worth the hassle.

 

 

4 Tips to Avoid Getting Hit by Parked Cars

 

Bike blog : Car dooring, or being hit by an open car door

My daily commute to Gotham HQ only lasts 15 minutes at worst, but it never fails to be life-threatening. While I used to be concerned about getting sideswiped or run over by a speeding car, I’ve come to realize that the more real danger for me lies on the other side of the bike lane - parked cars. One of my biggest (legitimate) fears is that someone will recklessly open their car door into the bike lane, or pull out of a parking spot without seeing me approaching. Here are some ways I’ve been training myself to avoid flying through the window of a compact car.

Checking for Brake Lights or Reverse Lights
Whether they are red or white, if you see any lights to your right side, use this as a sure sign that you are nearing a car that someone’s inside! And when people are inside cars, they will predictably do one of two things: 1) Open the door and get out of that car 2) Stay in that car and drive into your bike lane. Neither of these possible scenarios bodes well for you, so stay on the lookout for lights!

Checking for Faces in Sideview Mirrors
No, I am not suggesting that you check yourself out in every little mirror that you ride by (although if you’re rocking a Defender on your handlebars, I don’t blame you for wanting to). Looking for faces in sideview mirrors is another good way to determine if anyone is in one of the cars ahead of you. If you catch their eye give ‘em a smile and a nod to remind them you’re a human being.
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Paying Attention to Car Orientation
While some people just park like crap, if you see a car that is slightly angled in a parking spot, it could also very well be that it is on the verge of pulling out into your lane. Stay alert for any subtle movement of the tires that would confirm your suspicions.

Setting Headlight to Flashing, Even During the Day
Since your headlight rests at almost exactly the same height as the side view mirror of a typical car, you can use this to your advantage by always riding with it turned on. However, it’s not enough to just have it on, because it’s easy for a motorist to mistake you for a distant car. By setting your headlight to flashing, you make certain that people know specifically that a bicyclist is approaching.